Croatia | Split, Hvar, Trogir, Komiza
- Jun 8
- 8 min read
Updated: Jul 9
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There are places that impress us with landmarks, and there are places that change the way we move through the world.
Southern Croatia, particularly the Dalmatian Coast, did a little of both.
This region is a collection of ancient stone cities, sunny islands, quiet fishing villages, and some of the clearest water we've ever seen. The days began with strong coffee, and no sense of urgency. Somewhere between all of the beauty we began to understand that life here operates on a different schedule.
Beach Grljevac in Podstrana
People
The Locals
The people of Dalmatia had a remarkable ability to make us feel less like customers and more like temporary neighbors. They're proud of where they're from, but not in an aggressive way. They genuinely wanted us to understand there way of life.
A dry Balkan humor was subtly woven into everyday life. Conversations came with a harmless sarcastic comment delivered with a completely straight face. It was a sort of humor that transcended our cultural differences and allowed diverse friendships to form.
What stood out most about the locals wasn't any particular interaction. But the kindness felt genuine, the hospitality felt natural, and nobody seemed interested in selling a version of Croatia. They were simply sharing their Croatia.
And that made all the difference.
Laganini
Upon arriving in Croatia, we kept hearing one word.
"Laganini"
We assumed it was just another local expression, but by the time we left we realized it meant something much more.
To Dalmatians, laganini is a slang term that means "to take it easy," "go slowly," or "there's no hurry." But like most good cultural phrases, the literal translation rarely encompasses its entirety.
Laganini is more of a philosophy.
It's the understanding that not everything requires urgency. That meals should be enjoyed, not rushed. That conversations don't need an agenda. That there is value in sitting by the sea with a coffee and nowhere to be.
Coming from a culture obsessed with productivity and schedules, it felt almost rebellious.
For us, this is far from how we like to vacation. We live for itineraries full of exploration, activities, and experiences. But somewhere along the way, we stopped fighting it.
The funny thing is that nobody tried to teach us laganini. They simply lived it. And after a few days, we found ourselves walking slower, checking our phone less, and relaxing at the beach with no end in sight.
Our last day was spent without an itinerary, a directionless stroll through Diocletian's Palace, a long unplanned lunch on the Riva, and hours spent on the beach doing absolutely nothing. By the end of the day, we felt a profound understanding of what laganini truly is.
It is an intentional prioritization of peace over a rigid schedule. A way of life that embodies the present and appreciates simplicity. For Dalmatians, laganini is second nature and we will be forever grateful for its imposing spirit.
Places
Split
Split was the heartbeat of the Dalmatian Coast. The unique old town, otherwise known as Diocletian’s Palace, was once a Roman emperor's retirement home that somehow evolved into a living, breathing city. The history alone was enough to impress, but what impressed us was the harmonious blend of ancient history and everyday life.
The palace is so well preserved, yet its streets were filled with everyday life. Laundry was strung up from windows built into Roman walls. Restaurants spilled out into alleyways that once carried soldiers. Small grocery stores, cafés, and wine bars operated beneath ancient arches that have stood for nearly two thousand years.
Upon exiting the palace, we were met with the Riva. This area boasted a blend of seaside restaurants, the blue Adriatic, and a plethora of different boats. At night, the waterfront Riva filled with people doing what Dalmatians seem to do best: absolutely nothing, and enjoying every second of it.
Hvar
Hvar was no doubt one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever been. This port town featured 13th century architecture, a hilltop fortress, and a lively main square. Aside from the luxury yachts and panoramic rooftop bars, lied a natural beauty filled with crystal-clear coves, sunny skies, and an atmosphere that left a lasting impression.
Hvar now holds a special place in our hearts and we will surely be back to explore more of this spectacular island.
Trogir
Trogir was a perfectly preserved secret that is unlike any other place we’ve been. A small island that invited us to get lost in its maze of medieval architecture. The streets were narrow and hidden courtyards appeared without warning. Trogir was a quaint laid back island, yet its history and architecture rivaled even the biggest Dalmatian towns.
This UNESCO-listed island city is a must see in the Dalmatian region.
Komiza
Komiza felt like it existed in its own category. This peaceful fishing village is located on the western coast of Vis Island. The harbor was lined with fishing boats instead of superyachts. The locals sat along the waterfront watching the day unfold without any apparent urgency. The pace was slower and the cats were plentiful. There were no grand monuments or famous attractions demanding our attention. It was a town that served as a true testament to the laganini philosophy.
Komiza was a place that reminded us how much of modern life is unnecessary. And it's hard to imagine a better town to sit back, relax, and do absolutely nothing.
Cuisine
Local Cuisine
Romans, Venetians, Austrians, Ottomans, Italians, and countless seafaring traders all left influences behind. The result isn't a cuisine that belongs entirely to one culture. It's a cuisine that quietly borrowed the best ideas from all of them.
At first glance, the food seemed deceptively simple.
Dalmatian cooking doesn't rely on elaborate techniques or endless ingredients. Instead, it placed its trust in the quality of what's already there. Local homegrown ingredients elevated each and every dish.
Nothing felt overly complicated. And that's exactly why it was so delicious.
Cevapi
Cevapi is a Balkan staple and a must-try classic. There was nothing fancy about them. Grilled minced meat, flatbread, chopped onions, and a generous helping of ajvar. It was the ultimate go-to street food, quick lunch, or late-night comfort food.
We spent days eating seafood along the Dalmatian Coast and still eventually we found find ourself sitting in front of these small grilled sausages.
Local Wines
One of the biggest surprises on our trip to Croatia was the wine. Croatia rarely enters the conversation when people talk about great wine regions. And we’re no sommeliers, but we like good wine and these wines left us wanting more.
Many of the country's best wines rarely leave Croatia. Produced in relatively small quantities and consumed locally, these wines were poured at family-run restaurants for locals and tourists alike. Every new glass seemed like a grand discovery and perhaps that's why it left such a lasting impression.
We arrived expecting beautiful beaches and historic towns. And we left wondering why nobody told us about the wine.
Guides & Recommendations
Recommended Itinerary | 7 nights / 8 Days
Split | 2 nights
Diocletian's Palace
The Riva
Green Market
Putalj Winery
Ovcice Beach
Hvar | 3 nights
Tvrđava Španjola (Spanish fortress)
Palenki Islands
Vinogradisce Bay
Komiza
Blue Cave
Lacman Family Winery
Trogir | 2 nights
Kamerlengo Fortress
The Riva
Blue Lagoon
Okrug Gornji Beach
Split
Where To Stay
Stay in Diocletian’s Palace (Old Town) or on the Riva. Here are a few suggestions:
Recommended Restaurant
Restaurant Laganini was the perfect mix of great food, exceptional service, and an unforgettable ambiance. This restaurant is located in the heart of the Old Town and features an intimate courtyard, locally sourced ingredients, and some of the friendliest staff you’ll ever meet.
Our Rating: 9.2/10
Recommended Activities
Diocletian’s Palace Walking Tour
The palace features over 1,700 years of history and 200 interconnected buildings. It is easy to wander aimlessly, but to understand its long history I would definitely book a walking tour. Here is our recommendation:
1 hour 30 minutes
Starting at $18
Visit Green Market
This outdoor market is a lively hub just outside the Old Town. It features hundreds of sellers with products ranging from fruits, vegetables, and meats to clothes, souvenirs, and art work. Due to Sunday being the traditional day of rest it is usually the quietest day of the week.
Putalj Winery
Putalj Winery offers a full service tour that includes a round-trip transfer, a generous amount of charcuterie and wine, and a breathtaking view of Split. This tour isn’t the cheapest, but the whole experience is well worth it.
$150 / person
Relax On The Beach
Split offers a diverse array of beaches just a walk away from Old Town. Here is our recommendations for beaches to relax on:
Ovcice Beach (19 min walk from Old Town)
Bacvice Beach (13 min walk from Old Town)
Kaštelet Beach (30 min walk from Old Town)
Hvar
Where To Stay
Hvar Island is quite large and features multiple towns that would be suitable for a 3 night stay. We recommend staying in the town of Hvar, which has ample restaurants, easy access to water taxis, and plenty of tours leaving straight from the harbour. Here are some recommended accommodations:
Recommended Bar
Usually we recommend a restaurant but the view from this bar is undeniable. Whether you’re looking for an afternoon refreshment or a pre-dinner cocktail, the Adriana Roof Top Bar is sure to quench your thirst.
Our Rating: 8.1/10
Recommended Activities
Tvrđava Španjola (Spanish fortress)
This 16th century fortress is considered one of the best viewpoints in Hvar. It is a steep but rewarding 15-20 minute walk from the main square.
$12 / person
Vinogradisce Bay
A short water taxi away is home to one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever seen. The bay is the perfect place to relax, grab a drink, or take a refreshing swim. If you’re in need of a rest day, then this would be the place to spend it.
Komiza & Blue Cave
From Hvar you can take a 50 minute ferry to the island of Vis. The town of Komiza lives on Vis and is a wonderful place to spend the day. From Komiza you can take a short water taxi to the island of Bizevo which hosts the beautiful Blue Cave.
Ferry Ticket: $7 - $30
Blue Cave Admission: $28
Lacman Family Winery
Lacman Family Winery is about a 25 minute drive from the Old Town. They specialize in chemical free natural wines. Their grounds feature a stunning view of the Adriatic along with an array of different tastings.
Tastings starting at $35 / person
Trogir
Where To Stay
Since Trogir is relatively small I would recommend staying in the Old Town. Here are a few suggestions:
Recommended Restaurant
Tunaholic Fish Bar is the perfect place to enjoy a quick lunch or even a laid back dinner. The restaurant is tucked away into a cute little courtyard and offers an assortment of delicious fish options for an affordable price.
Our Rating: 8.8/10
Recommended Activities
Kamerlengo Fortress
Kamerlengo Fortress is a 15th century castle that is nestled along the southwestern edge of the Old Town. This Venetian built fortress offers stunning views of the old town and marina.
$6 / person
Blue Lagoon
The lagoon is only a 15-20 minute speed boat from Trogir and offers easy access to the picturesque turquoise waters. Some tours offer an additional stop at Solta Island to explore the charming fishing village of Maslinica.
6 hours
$58 / person
Okrug Gornji Beach
This vibrant beach is known for its lively promenade featuring dozens of cafes, restaurants, and bars. You can reach this beach by a short water taxi from the old town of Trogir.
A BIG thank you to the Nguyens & Hirths!
We had the honor of visiting Croatia for the purpose of watching our best friends tie the knot. A memory we will hold near and dear for the rest of our lives.
We are forever grateful for the experiences they provided us while in Croatia. And we can’t wait to come back and celebrate their anniversary.
Eric & Baylee, congrats on starting this new chapter of life. We are so honored to be a part of this sacred celebration and we can’t thank you enough for sharing it with us.
Love y’all!
P.S. Thank you for letting us crash your honeymoon :)
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